Sunday, June 1, 2014

Cooking Class: Spicy Homemade Pickles


It's pickling season!  The time to start capturing all the best flavors of warm weather to enjoy when it's not warm anymore. I think in other parts of the country, that means preserving summer for when it gets cool.  In Houston, I think that canning might preserving the flavors of the warm season for when it is burning hot. 

My favorite things about pickling are the following the classic, almost-scientific process, and having the ability to make things as burning spicy hot as I want them.  It's very hard for me to find a pickle that is hot enough.  These are my problems.  

Every year, I like to make a big visit to the farmers' market when cucumbers, green beans, tomatoes, and strawberries are ripe and buy in bulk.  Then I gather all my canning and pickling supplies and take stock, determining what needs to be replaced.  Kroger has a surprisingly awesome Ball section with all the materials you could possibly need at reasonable prices.  Here is what I like to have on hand to start the annual pickling adventure:

1 jug white vinegar
12 mason jars (can be used)
12 lids and rings (lids must be new)
1 large pot (not metal)
1 set jar grabbers (not the official name, can use tongs)
1 magnetic lid lifter (also not the official name)
12 labels

Depending on what is fresh and available, I like to make a few jars of "pickled pickles," made the traditional way and sealed so they last up to a year, a few jars of "quick pickles" that pickle in the fridge over a ten day period, and need to be eaten within a month, a few jars of pickled beans or okra to complete a well equipped Bloody Mary bar, and potentially a jar of quick pickled cherry tomato sauce or two.  


Burning Spicy Hot Pickled Pickles

1 1/2 lb. Persian cucumbers
4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
2 tsp. dill seed
1 tsp. red pepper flakes, optional
1 c. cider vinegar
1 c. water
1 1/2 tbsp. pickling salt or kosher salt

Prepare the jars: If you are planning to can your pickles for long-term storage, bring a large pot of water to a boil and sterilize the jars and their lids. If you are planning to make refrigerator pickles, simply washing the jars and lids is fine.

Prepare the cucumbers: Wash and dry the cucumbers. Trim away the blossom end of the cucumber, which contains enzymes that can lead to limp pickles. Leave the pickles whole, cut them into spears, or slice them into coins, whichever you prefer.

Add the spices to the jars: Divide the garlic, dill seed, and red pepper flakes between the pint jars: 2 cloves, 1 teaspoon dill seed, and 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes per jar.

Pack the pickles into the jars: Pack the pickles into the jars. Trim the ends if they stand more than 1/2 inch below the top of the jar. Pack them in as tightly as you can without smashing the cucumbers.

Bring the pickling brine to a boil: Combine the vinegar, water, and salt in a small sauce pan over high heat. Bring to a rolling boil. Pour the brine over the pickles, filling each jar to within 1/2-inch of the top. You may not use all the brine.

Remove air bubbles: Gently tap the jars against the counter a few times to remove all the air bubbles. Top off with more pickling brine if necessary.

Tighten the lids: Place the lids over the jars and screw on the rings until tight. 

Process the pickles for longer storage: Place the jars in a boiling pot of water. When the water comes back to a boil, set the timer for 5 minutes and remove the jars immediately. Make sure the lids pop down; if they do not, refrigerate those pickles and eat them first.

Cool and refrigerate: Let the jars cool to room temperature. Processed jars can be stored on the shelf (if unprocessed, store the pickles in the fridge). The pickles will improve with flavor as they age — try to wait at least 48 hours before cracking them open. Canned pickles will keep for at least a year on the shelf and for several weeks in the refrigerator once opened; refrigerator pickles will keep for several weeks.

Burning Spicy Hot Quick Pickles

12 small pickling cucumbers
2 c. water
1 3/4 c. distilled white vinegar
1 1/2 c. packed coarsely chopped fresh dill
1/2 c. sugar
8 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
2 tbsp. coarse salt
1 tbsp. pickling spice
1 1/2 tsp. mustard seeds
1 tsp. dried crushed red pepper

Combine all ingredients except dill sprigs in large bowl. Stir, let stand at room temperature 2 hours until sugar and salt dissolve.

Transfer 4 cucumbers to each of three 1 1/2-pint wide-mouth jars. Pour pickling mixture over to cover. Place a few dill sprigs in each jar. Cover jars with lids and close tightly. Refrigerate at least 10 days. Pickles will stay fresh for up to 1 month. Keep refrigerated.

Burning Spicy Hot Pickled Green Beans

2 lb. fresh green beans
2 c. distilled white vinegar
1 1/2 c. water
1/4 c. salt
4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 bunch fresh dill
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. peppercorns

Sterilize 4 (1/2 pint) jars with rings and lids and keep hot. Trim green beans to 1/4 inch shorter than your jars.

In a large saucepan, stir together the vinegar, water and salt. Add garlic and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. In each jar, place 1 sprig of dill and 1/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes and peppercorns each. Pack green beans into the jars so they are standing on their ends.

Ladle the boiling brine into the jars, filling to within 1/4 inch of the tops. Discard garlic. Seal jars with lids and rings. Place in a hot water bath so they are covered by 1 inch of water. Simmer but do not boil for 10 minutes to process. Cool to room temperature. Test jars for a good seal by pressing on the center of the lid. It should not move. Refrigerate any jars that do not seal properly. Let pickles ferment for 2 to 3 weeks before eating.

John Besh's Quick Spicy Cherry Tomato Sauce

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 quarts ripe cherry tomatoes (red, orange or both), halved
1 bunch fresh basil
1 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat oil in large, deep skillet over high heat until hot. Add tomatoes, basil, sugar, pepper flakes and garlic and cook until tomatoes come to a full boil. Cook 5 minutes more, until most tomatoes have collapsed, crushing them with back of a wooden spoon (I used a potato masher). Using a food mill, puree sauce back into the cooking pan. Simmer until thickened.

Ladle the sauce into the jars, filling to within 1/4 inch of the tops. Seal jars with lids and rings. Place in a hot water bath so they are covered by 1 inch of water. Simmer but do not boil for 10 minutes to process. Cool to room temperature. Test jars for a good seal by pressing on the center of the lid. It should not move. Refrigerate any jars that do not seal properly, and keep chilled for up to three months.  

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